Dropping the AX-15

[Zoro]

I'll be needing to drop my AX-15 soon to swap the clutch& slave cylinder, it looks like all the bolts can be gotten to fairly easily, will I need any long extensions? Are any of the bolts torqued down extremely tight? ALso how hard is it to drop the crossmember, just the 4 bolts?

Any special tips for installing the new clutch& slave cylinder?

Thanks

[5-90]

SHould be faily simple - the only thing that was really difficult for me (OK, two...) was:
A) I dropped the AX-15 out of my 1989, and put it in my 1988.
B) I managed to catch the damn flu in the middle of the job!

Take a look at the top two bellhousing screws to the engine - you want to see the heads (this can be done from overtop the vehicle, looking down between the rear of the cylinder head and the firewall.) That is, if you haven't done this before. If you don't see a regular "Hex" head, you'll need an E12 "inverse Torx" socket - check a Lisle tool seller, I think I got mine at Sears.

You can replace these with standard hex heads - they're threaded 3/8"-16. You can also use a socket head (hex key or Torx,) or use a stud and nut

Use flare nut wrenches to remove hydraulic lines - if you round off one of those flare nuts, you're going to say many evil words...

If you have an internal slave cylinder (early AX-15,) disconnect the hydraulic line before you start working on the bellhousing. The assembly is retained with a "press nut" - you'll have to get that off before you can pull the slave off. You should get a new one with the clutch kit.

If you have an external slave cylinder (late AX-15 - slave cylinder actuates a fork going into the bellhousing,) you don't need to mess with hydraulics - just remove the two screws holding the slave down, and hang it out of the way (this not only saves fluid, it's easier to bleed the clutch...)

I do suggest replacing the screws holding the clutch pressure plate down - they should be 3/8"-16 x 1", and I prefer to use socket heads. You can also use hex heads - but they used a "reduced hex head," and there may have been a reason. The socket heads are stronger anyhow.

You'll also want to replace at least the screws holding the universal joint straps down - with replacing the straps themselves highly suggested. I use socket heads there as well - those should want 1/4"-28 x 1" on both axles. The double Cardan on the transfer case front output yoke probably wants 5/16"-18 screws (use hex heads,) later versions may be M8-1.25, but I've not been able to confirm.

As PM, this may also be a good time to change your transfer case rear output seal as well - since you've got to expose it anyhow (driveshafts have to come out.)

5-90

[Zoro]

Thanks, seal wise I'll be replacing both output seals on the x-fer case along with the input& output seals on the trans, rear main on the motor, oil pan seal and the x-fer case input seal.

I don't think mine has a double cardan u-joint, IIRC it was only used on the NP229's, I have the 231.

[5-90]

If you have the NP231, you have the double Cardan (a "Cardan" joint is the cross-style "universal joint" we all know and love.)

If you're going to do your front output, you will want to break torque on that nut BEFORE you remove the transmission/transfer case, and retorque it with the trans/tcase INSTALLED. Use the weight of your vehicle to your advantage - pull the driveshaft, put the tcase in 4LO, block the wheels, and let the weight of the vehicle hold it in place for you.

5-90