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Ideas on how to fold this?

JeepFreak21

JeepFreak21

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cameron Park, CA
I need to fold the 'flap' over at 90* angle on the black line. Anybody have any ideas on how to get a nice, clean, straight bend the first time? I was thinking that I could clamp some angle iron on the back, just under the fold, but I don't think I can get vice grips or C clamps in there.

2ut0xv6.jpg


Any advice would be appreciated!
Billy
 
The angle iron is a good idea. If you can spend the money, you can buy some deep vise grips they use for welding. We used them in the sheet metal shop I used to work at (man I miss that work). They have them in a variety of depths, I've seen some at Orchard, I would imagine they have cheaper ones at Harbor if theres one around your hacienda.
 
Deepthroat C-clamps or pipe clamps, and use the angle iron as a form. It's keeping the window frame that is mainly getting to you.

If you can cover up the holes afterwards, you can drill through just below (or just above?) where you're going to fold, use screws to positively locate the angle iron, and then bend it. Remove the screws and angle iron, then weld the holes to fill.

Alternatively, drill two small holes so you can locate the line, then tack-weld the angle iron inside the door. Bend, then grind away the weldments and remove the angle iron. Weld to fill the two small holes.
 
downhillracer said:
Maybe score the back of the door with a die grinder along the line and then fold.
Click to expand...

Die grinder would go through it too easily - it's not that thick. Cutting wheel in a Dremel would be a better choice. You'd get a finer score (resulting in a better bend anyhow - cleaner,) and you're much less likely to go through the door if you're not paying attention.

Not saying your idea is a bad one - just that you'd better be paying attention to what you're doing when you're doing it!
 
5-90 said:
Die grinder would go through it too easily - it's not that thick. Cutting wheel in a Dremel would be a better choice. You'd get a finer score (resulting in a better bend anyhow - cleaner,) and you're much less likely to go through the door if you're not paying attention.

Not saying your idea is a bad one - just that you'd better be paying attention to what you're doing when you're doing it!
Click to expand...

X2 dremel and a steady hand would be the way to go if you went this route
 
A steady hand? Attention? Next thing you guys are going to suggest that I be sober!
rolleyes.gif












biggrin.gif


I think I'm going to try to find some bigger vice grips like Ed suggested and seriously consider making holes and bolt it in place like Jon suggested. I'm just not sure if I want to try to weld them back up. I guess in the scheme of things...


Thanks guys,
Billy

PS - Any other suggestions still welcome.
 
USE A RAZOR KNIFE TO SCORE IT. Also, maybe 2-way tape to hold your straight edges on.
 
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Dont HVAC techs have small brakes that might be close to that width, looks like you have enough clearanced on the inner panel to get close to your 90.

Or tack flat stock on both sides, gently massage it over and use a little filler if needed to clean up the surface?

Drop MDXJ a PM, he's a body guy.
 
JeepFreak21 said:
A steady hand? Attention? Next thing you guys are going to suggest that I be sober!
rolleyes.gif
Click to expand...

Ask any darts player - a few drinks will actually work to steady your hands, which is why they often compete over beers.

I can attest to this - my darts and my pool usually improve dramatically after I've had a bit... Whenever I have any really fine work to do around the house, I'll have a nip beforehand for that very reason. Not much - just enough to calm the nerves and relax the muscles a bit.

You see? There's some logic to drinking while fabricating - just don't take it too far...:laugh3::firedevil:twak::twak::twak:
 
Dude? Am I the only one that sees this? Lay the door on the ground, outside sheeting against the ground. A nice big, flat, metal welding table will work too if you have one laying around :) Take your piece of angle and lay it against the piece to be folded. Stand on it, put more metal on top of your angle, do something to get a lot of weight (pressure) on top of the "die" so to speak. This will keep it from moving. Now bend your sheet over. We're talking about 18 gauge metal here, not .125 or quarter inch. If you really want it to bend like paper, get a propane torch and give it a little heat all along the seam. Not red hot, just enough to help make it more pliable. It should be pretty easy.
 
DanMan2k06 said:
Dude? Am I the only one that sees this? Lay the door on the ground, outside sheeting against the ground. A nice big, flat, metal welding table will work too if you have one laying around :) Take your piece of angle and lay it against the piece to be folded. Stand on it, put more metal on top of your angle, do something to get a lot of weight (pressure) on top of the "die" so to speak. This will keep it from moving. Now bend your sheet over. We're talking about 18 gauge metal here, not .125 or quarter inch. If you really want it to bend like paper, get a propane torch and give it a little heat all along the seam. Not red hot, just enough to help make it more pliable. It should be pretty easy.
Click to expand...

Dude! That might work! Good idea
cheers.gif

Billy
 
I like Danman's idea also. The one I had was take a 2x4 or a few pieces of wood and stack them between the outer and inner skin until you've filled in the space. You could shoot some screw through the inner skin into the wood to hold it in place and then hammer over the outer skin.
 
What ever you use it will leave a radius bend. Which is probally what you want. How much metal above the black line do you need to leave. If it is just an inch or two you could use sheet metal tongs. There are several types. But useing the tongs will not leave you with a clean smooth bend along the bend line. Using a body hammer and dolly you could clean that bend up. Or you could make a tool just for the bend you need. You take 3 pieces of metal all stacked on each other the length of the bend you need. The middle piece would be the same thickness as the door skin (about 28 gauge). The outer two would be heavier. Line the 3 pieces up so the ends are all flush. Then pull the middle one in away from the edge as far as you need to get the door metal in. Then weld, bolt or screw three pieces together. Slide the yool over the door skin to the line then start bending slow and watch your angle of bend as the metal will want to slip out. This is like a tool we use in the sheetmetal trade to bend a "drive" on a S and Drive connection. For a visual think of an oreo cookie. The cookies are lined up with the filling. If you could, pull the filling out away from the edge as far as you need. That space left between the cookies is where you would put the door metal. The two cookies support the door skin as you make the bend.

Hope this helps.....gotto go get some oreos now!
 
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JamesM412 said:
What ever you use it will leave a radius bend. Which is probally what you want. How much metal above the black line do you need to leave. If it is just an inch or two you could use sheet metal tongs. There are several types. But useing the tongs will not leave you with a clean smooth bend along the bend line. Using a body hammer and dolly you could clean that bend up. Or you could make a tool just for the bend you need. You take 3 pieces of metal all stacked on each other the length of the bend you need. The middle piece would be the same thickness as the door skin (about 28 gauge). The outer two would be heavier. Line the 3 pieces up so the ends are all flush. Then pull the middle one in away from the edge as far as you need to get the door metal in. Then weld, bolt or screw three pieces together. Slide the yool over the door skin to the line then start bending slow and watch your angle of bend as the metal will want to slip out. This is like a tool we use in the sheetmetal trade to bend a "drive" on a S and Drive connection. For a visual think of an oreo cookie. The cookies are lined up with the filling. If you could, pull the filling out away from the edge as far as you need. That space left between the cookies is where you would put the door metal. The two cookies support the door skin as you make the bend.

Hope this helps.....gotto go get some oreos now!
Click to expand...

That's a pretty cool concept! I've got to leave at least 4.5" above the bend, and I think that will include the stock body line, which will make it difficult to slide my cookie over it
biggrin.gif
... I guess I'd have to take that bend out at some point anyway.

Thanks!
Billy

PS - I was guessing the outer door skin was about 18 gauge! I'll have to measure now.
 
DanMan2k06 said:
18 gauge is the universal autobody thickness. A few components (hoods, maybe a few brand of doors, etc) can be 16 gauge, but not often.
Click to expand...

I beg to differ with you on that.

In 1977 most new cars had 18 gauge mild steel, by 1981 unibodies were used in about 1/2 the American made cars using 22 high-strength steel. At present most unibodies use 24 guage high-strength steel.

If cars were still using the 18 guage and 16 guage there is no way they could get the milage required by the feds. Plus with the high strength steel now they do not have to use the thicker steel. That is why you have to be careful about heating up body panels when you you do bodywork. To much heat will remove the strenght from the high-strenght steel. It may look nice when done but will not perform in a crash the way it was designed
 
Dude. There is absolutely NO WAY the unibody of my Jeep is 22 gauge steel. That's .0299 inches, literally nothing. That would be the equivalent of 3/4 of a MM, or 5 sheets of paper. Not possible. you would be able to warp the stuff just by tightening a bolt if that were the case.
 
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