View Full Version : Mechanical trivia
T3hk1w1
July 27th, 2009, 20:38
How about a thread on misc trivial info having to do with mechanical stuff? Can be about tools, equipment, or having to do with jeep components or working on jeeps . I'll start with 2 random trivia facts.
1. the Dana 30 was offered as a REAR axle in early C101s and some CJs sold in Mexico.
2. JB weld is magnetic.
GrimmJeeper
July 27th, 2009, 21:33
im gunna go ahead and say i'm in before Jon '5-90' Kelly posts a novel of his XJ related knowledge :D
how about this
throwing a small magnet in any oil containing area of your vehicle can help any related parts last longer.
i have a small magnet in each of my diffs, my oil pan, and my transmission pan on the auto in my 95. they collect all sorts of crap. you'd be surprised at how much fine metal shavings are floating around in those areas, and a little magnet is cheap insurance ;)
heyhar
July 27th, 2009, 22:24
WD-40 is made from fish oil.
5-90
July 27th, 2009, 22:47
- WD-40 is not, and was not designed as, a lubricant (despite what marketing wants you to think) - although it may be used as such when cutting metal.
"WD-40" means "Water Displacer, formulation 1940" and was initially designed to protect ferrous metal from corrosion in storage - a role it fills very well.
- Kerosene and Diesel fuel are closer to "oil" than to "gasoline" - and full under the umbra of "fuel oils." Oddly, this makes kero and Diesel good candidates for light lubrication when cutting (usually aluminum) as well.
- Base oil for various automotive fluids does not "break down" or "wear out" unless it enters the combustion chamber. The additives are what break down. This is why re-refined oil was previously availble (and preferred by some of us - since it was cheaper.) I'd like to know what oil is being recycled into now to use it up - but I'm not seeing re-refined oil anymore...
- The Dana model 44 axle has been used by every domestic automaker, and has been both at the forward and rear end of pretty much every light truck series. The D44 is - far and away - the most popular and common axle, outnumbering even the various "corporate" axles in frequency of use.
- Most "corporate" axles are not actually made by the parent corporation (GM/Ford/Chrysler.) In fact, they are mostly made by American Axle & Manufacturing - despite being called "corporate" axles, as if they were built by the corporation proper. Axles can generally be counted into two categories - "corporate" (F8.8", C9.25", GM8.5", et al) and "Dana" (D25/27/28IFS/30/30IFS/35/35IFS/36ICA/41/44/44IFS/50/50IFS/60/61/70/80/135.)
- The Dana 35 was offered as a front axle in some Ford Ranger - and and the rear uses of the D30 also include Ford applications (mostly the Aerostar, IIRC.)
GrimmJeeper
July 27th, 2009, 23:04
come now Jon i know you've got more floating around in the ol pudding cup than that ;)
Brake cleaner spray was originally designed as a lubricant for drilling hardened steel by lockheed martin. it was used to break down the cuttting oil so it would flow better into small cutting passages, but it worked so well as a solvent they dropped that idea and used it as a residue free cleaner.
heyhar
July 27th, 2009, 23:11
I read a two page set of facts about WD-40 a few years ago, and I believe it's Water Drier - 40th attempt, although it was sometime around 1940 that it was formulated. It's also useful to spray on fishing lures, as it attracts fish- possibly pheromones? Fish perfume? Anyway, it's probably one of the most versatile things ever cooked up.
AL BUNDY
July 28th, 2009, 00:43
You probably already know this one. A carb'd engine can run without a fuel pump. as long as the supply of gas is above the carb, gravity is enough.
I proved it on the rubicon when my fuel pump died. I filled the radiator overflow with gas, ran a line to the carb and limped it to Tahoe.
beakie
July 28th, 2009, 01:52
kinda mechanical themed but,
the saying "balls to the wall" as in "we're going balls to the walls" originates from large flywheeled engines (stationary steam engines/generators I believe) the flywheels were designed with weighted balls on 'spokes' which moved further away from the center of the wheel as the speed increased.
when top speed was acheived, the balls on the fly wheels were as far away from the center, and produced the greatest amount of 'reserved power' so to speak.
Even when the engines were turned off, or the source of power was removed, the flywheels could/would continue for long periods of time, hours even, on well designed systems.
so thats the source of the saying "balls to the walls"
msrorysddad
July 28th, 2009, 05:53
If you can't fix it with a hammer.
It's an electrical problem
RTicUL8
July 28th, 2009, 06:23
Fuel pump changing trivia: If you get gasoline in your eyes it burns like napalm - and even rinsing with water doesn't help.
8Mud
July 28th, 2009, 07:34
Fuel pump changing trivia: If you get gasoline in your eyes it burns like napalm - and even rinsing with water doesn't help.
I keep a twenty pack of 0.9% NaCl 10 ML plastic ampules in the first aid cabinet, just for this. They are soothing, antiseptic and you can squeeze the ampules and get a pretty good squirt out of one, to power wash your eyeball.
Trying to spray out blind bolt holes with brake cleaner can have about the same consequences.
bigalpha
July 28th, 2009, 07:36
The push rod on a 1999 brake booster is about 2" longer than on an 88. Consequently, when you install the 99 push rod into an 88, the brake pedal is about 2" taller.
Jeff in VA
July 28th, 2009, 08:45
1. the Dana 30 was offered as a REAR axle in early C101s and some CJs sold in Mexico.
and also on 80's-90's era Volvos (maybe even still, but I haven't seen a newer one to verify). Take a look in the import section of the junkyard the next time you are there....
Jeff
Original_MudButt
July 28th, 2009, 08:59
The drill size (minor dia.) for any tap is equal to the major dia. - the pitch.
Major dia. = the OD of the thread.
Pitch = 1 / # threads per inch.
Thus a 1/4-20 thread requires a #7 drill
Major dia. = .250
Pitch = .05
.25 - .05 = .2
#7 drill = .201
5-90
July 28th, 2009, 12:00
come now Jon i know you've got more floating around in the ol pudding cup than that ;)
Brake cleaner spray was originally designed as a lubricant for drilling hardened steel by lockheed martin. it was used to break down the cuttting oil so it would flow better into small cutting passages, but it worked so well as a solvent they dropped that idea and used it as a residue free cleaner.
I'm sure I do - that's the third book...
My mind has just been on other matters of late (primarily medical,) and it's got me occupied.
BlueCuda
July 28th, 2009, 15:26
IIRC the Dana 30 was also the rear axle in the aerostar vans as well.
kastein
July 29th, 2009, 08:10
Fuel pump changing trivia: If you get gasoline in your eyes it burns like napalm - and even rinsing with water doesn't help.
Further note, scuffing a large patch off your wrist with the @#%@#%ing differential housing while removing those darn J-bolts, then getting it covered in road gunk and gasoline, then washing it off with hand soap results in a really funky chemical burn. I replaced my gas tank and pump in March and I still have a rather strange looking scar from that.
Other trivia:
if you replace your rear shocks, you will break the bolts in the frame.
You can replace a pre-'97 XJ's gas tank + pump with a '97+ gas tank + pump without any wiring changes (completely different fuel level sender type). Just don't expect the gas gage to work! And install a heat shield between the tailpipe and the tank. I like the 97+ HDPE tank more than the pre-97 metal tank because they don't crush if you bounce one off some rocks and don't rust out.
Squidmonkey
July 29th, 2009, 08:28
Other trivia:
if you replace your rear shocks, you will break the bolts in the frame.
Your doing it wrong. I replaced my 93's stock suspension a year ago and had no problems with those bolts. Plenty of PB plaster.
Trivia:
If you google mechanical trivia, this thread is number three.
Using a little bit of di-electric grease on your fuel injector's makes them very easy to insert/seat and greatly decreases the risk of o-ring failure.
nick86
July 29th, 2009, 09:23
Your doing it wrong. I replaced my 93's stock suspension a year ago and had no problems with those bolts.
You are the only one on this forum than, that has not ever broken off upper shock bolts. Congrats.:yelclap:
Darky
July 29th, 2009, 09:58
I only broke one. It was everything used to try and fix that problem that broke. 2 drill bits and a tap...:D
Curtis_H
July 29th, 2009, 11:46
Many of you probably will know this, but after working with the people I work with I realize some of you may not. Metric wrenches and standard wrenches will sometimes interchange.
11mm=7/16"
13mm=1/2"
14mm=9/16" (can be tight)
16mm=5/8"
17mm=11/16"
19mm=3/4"
They aren't all perfect but will almost always work.
ehall
July 29th, 2009, 13:06
You are the only one on this forum than, that has not ever broken off upper shock bolts. Congrats.:yelclap:
when I replaced my rear floorpan I removed the shock bolts on the theory that it would be the ideal time to replace the nuts, and not a one of them broke
I have zero doubt that when I actually pull them to swap shocks they will all break
T3hk1w1
July 29th, 2009, 13:33
Congratulations, you now have an understanding of how the universe works.
5-90
July 29th, 2009, 13:51
You are the only one on this forum than, that has not ever broken off upper shock bolts. Congrats.:yelclap:
Make that two. It must be a "rust belt" thing.
I've changed four shocks each on three XJ's out here, and haven't had any significant trouble with the upper rear shock screws, apart from getting them loose in the first place (gentle application of force over a long lever arm for greater sensitivity. Any that stuck significantly were replaced - I wish I'd written down the size - and LocTite applied.
(Nice thing about LocTite - not only does it hold threaded fasteners together, but it also helps prevent them rusting together or seizing outright...)
Z06guy
July 30th, 2009, 22:31
- The Dana 35 was offered as a front axle in some Ford Ranger
Yup. My '88 Bronco II had a Dana 35 in the front. I put a locker in that D35.
You are the only one on this forum than, that has not ever broken off upper shock bolts. Congrats.:yelclap:
Count me as three. I've changed them twice in my '96 XJ and none broke. Then again, mine has always lived here in the desert and has no rust or corrosion anywhere.
Mstrkage
July 31st, 2009, 00:24
if you have a 2.8v6 cherokee any kit to install a 4.3 or 350 into a chevy s10 will work the same for your cherokee.
LostSoul
July 31st, 2009, 00:58
The screwdriver was invented in the late middle ages in Europe.
Gunsmiths still refer to a screwdriver as a "turnscrew", under which name it is an important part of a set of pistols. The name was common in earlier centuries, used by cabinet makers and shipwrights and perhaps other trades.
5-90
July 31st, 2009, 17:11
Many of you probably will know this, but after working with the people I work with I realize some of you may not. Metric wrenches and standard wrenches will sometimes interchange.
11mm=7/16"
13mm=1/2"
14mm=9/16" (can be tight)
16mm=5/8"
17mm=11/16"
19mm=3/4"
They aren't all perfect but will almost always work.
Stick to six-points for this cross-over wherever possible.
Also, 5/16" ~= 8m/m
1-3/16" ~= 30m/m
kastein
August 3rd, 2009, 10:39
Make that two. It must be a "rust belt" thing.
I've changed four shocks each on three XJ's out here, and haven't had any significant trouble with the upper rear shock screws, apart from getting them loose in the first place (gentle application of force over a long lever arm for greater sensitivity. Any that stuck significantly were replaced - I wish I'd written down the size - and LocTite applied.
(Nice thing about LocTite - not only does it hold threaded fasteners together, but it also helps prevent them rusting together or seizing outright...)
living in the rust belt sucks :(
(all info pertains to '96 XJ)
Front shocks are a walk in the park - all the bolts can be cut off without repercussions, since one (the threaded body pin end of the shock) is replaced as part of the shock and the other two are free on both ends. The lower bolts are M8-1.25 30mm high-grade (flanged heads).
Rear shock bolts are either 5/16-18 1" grade-8 or M8-1.25, I forget.
I know most people here will never be putting fender flares back onto an XJ, but if you do, those darn bolt strips always rust out to the point that a JY trip is an exercise in frustration... here are some part numbers! At least it makes it easy to ask for them at the stealership.
Front bolt strip: 55003232-3 (I think it's a pair, not sure.)
Back bolt strip: 55003236-7 (see above)
Top/center bolt strip: 55003234 (you need two for sure)
I believe the nuts used are standard 1/4-20 but I'm not certain - I do know they were definitely in stock at Home Depot.
kastein
August 3rd, 2009, 13:57
^ the part numbers above are wrong, 55003232 is one front side, 55003233 is the other; 55003236 is one rear side, 55003237 is the other. didn't realize how to read my parts catalog :dunce:
(front and rear as in sections of the front fenders, not front/rear fenders)
souske
August 3rd, 2009, 22:32
i usually snap off all the bolts that wont come easily off the flares and just tack new bolts in there, works good so far
tbburg
August 3rd, 2009, 22:49
Mechanical trivia: A single 6oz tube of anti-seize compound (silver or copper, doesn't matter) has enough compound to cover your entire garage floor, with enough left over to make a good start on your kitchen.
Trail Blazer
August 4th, 2009, 01:44
When removing the 2.8L and tranny, don't forget to unbolt the exhaust. (just got my 86 legal and the oil pump died.... so we started the 93XJ drive train swap tonight)
Hellbent
August 4th, 2009, 03:36
Mechanical trivia: A single 6oz tube of anti-seize compound (silver or copper, doesn't matter) has enough compound to cover your entire garage floor, with enough left over to make a good start on your kitchen.
and laundry, and seat covers, and shoes(?!), etc. the stuff is unreal.
BlueCuda
August 4th, 2009, 04:44
Anti Sieze is the only substance that covers more area by volume than automatic transmision fluid.
I backed over one of the larger bottles of anti sieze years ago, it would have easier to just make that side of the lift silver vs trying to clean it up lol.
tbburg
August 4th, 2009, 18:25
I'll bet there's still anti-seize on the lift.
Joshooha
August 5th, 2009, 13:45
Mechanical trivia:
If your gas tank develops a crack or leak, a regular plain bar of soap can seal it due to the chemical reaction.
A 20oz bottle cap of water into your intake can help clean out your engine of carbon. Due to the fact that water can not compress, it creates a huge turbulance and can loosen up a lot of the carbon build up
bigalpha
August 5th, 2009, 13:48
Can you elaborate on the bar of soap deal?
AIbandit
August 5th, 2009, 13:55
Can you elaborate on the bar of soap deal?
My auto shop teacher told me this back in high school it works for small leaks the gasoline is supposed to make the soap stick and solidify.
Never tried this personally :)
XJosh95
August 5th, 2009, 15:01
The Saleen S7, when driving at speeds of 160 mph or greater, creates a downforce equal to it's own weight. In theory, it could drive upside down were it able to get turned.
et89xj
August 5th, 2009, 15:34
90% or more of the screws that hold interior trim on in '90 and new GM cars/trucks are 7mm and/or T15 socket/bits.
5-90
August 5th, 2009, 15:48
Mechanical trivia:
A 20oz bottle cap of water into your intake can help clean out your engine of carbon. Due to the fact that water can not compress, it creates a huge turbulance and can loosen up a lot of the carbon build up
Half marks. It does work, but not for the reason stated.
The water absorbs into the carbon deposits on the intake stroke. When the spark fires, the water is "flashed" into steam (combustion temperatures are typically in excess of 1500*F...) and it literally "blasts" the carbon deposits off of the walls.
I've been using this trick for years. However, you want to disconnect your catalytic converter and pull it aside while you're doing this, as it is possible to coat the matrix with carbon (that used to be in your combustion chambers and on your piston tops...) and clog the bed.
The difference is that I use a spray bottle and about a medium mist, then shoot it every few seconds into the air hose (disconnected from the air filter) instead.
Joshooha
August 5th, 2009, 15:49
Can you elaborate on the bar of soap deal?
the soap thing....No lie if you go to advanced auto and ask for a gas tank repair kit (not certain if it works on steel gas tanks) they will give you a kit...in the kit is a bar of soap. What you are suppose to do is if you have say a small punture in the tank you rub it over the hole and the reaction of the chemicals in the soap and the gas SHOULD solidify it creating a very good repair. Not sure how permanent it is, but it does work. I think you need to stop the leak before you apply it however, like turn the gas tank away from the hole so its still not pouring out. Feel free to read up on it more, but that's all I can tell you on it. It worked on my buddies XJ and later on we had a customer come in w/ a leaking gas tank that had been punctured and we ordered the proper repair kit and it had a bar of soap. I'm not sure how well it would work on rust holes though....
alex22
August 5th, 2009, 18:02
the soap thing....No lie if you go to advanced auto and ask for a gas tank repair kit (not certain if it works on steel gas tanks) they will give you a kit...in the kit is a bar of soap. What you are suppose to do is if you have say a small punture in the tank you rub it over the hole and the reaction of the chemicals in the soap and the gas SHOULD solidify it creating a very good repair. Not sure how permanent it is, but it does work. I think you need to stop the leak before you apply it however, like turn the gas tank away from the hole so its still not pouring out. Feel free to read up on it more, but that's all I can tell you on it. It worked on my buddies XJ and later on we had a customer come in w/ a leaking gas tank that had been punctured and we ordered the proper repair kit and it had a bar of soap. I'm not sure how well it would work on rust holes though....
Are ya sure the parts guy wasn't just playing a joke on you?
GrimmJeeper
August 5th, 2009, 18:10
Are ya sure the parts guy wasn't just playing a joke on you?
the gas tank repair kit we sell at NAPA is a 2 part epoxy, similar to the JB weld putty.
the soap trick does work, ive done it twice, but its not permanent. it will eventually wear down from weathering on the outside, and become thin enough to split. the reason it works so well is the soap is malleable enough to fill in the cracks, but not soluble in gasoline like it is in water. ive done the soap trick, got it to stop leaking and all cleaned up, and covered it with JB weld to protect. that patch lasted 5 years on my DD Dakota, and was still solid when i sold it.
alex22
August 5th, 2009, 18:48
the gas tank repair kit we sell at NAPA is a 2 part epoxy, similar to the JB weld putty.
the soap trick does work, ive done it twice, but its not permanent. it will eventually wear down from weathering on the outside, and become thin enough to split. the reason it works so well is the soap is malleable enough to fill in the cracks, but not soluble in gasoline like it is in water. ive done the soap trick, got it to stop leaking and all cleaned up, and covered it with JB weld to protect. that patch lasted 5 years on my DD Dakota, and was still solid when i sold it.
cool trick.
XJosh95
August 24th, 2009, 09:04
When the Bugatti Veyron is cruising at a speed of 180 mph steady and accelerates at wide open throttle, the G-force felt is equal to that of the Ford Five Hundred at a 30 mph wide open throttle acceleration.
XJEEPER
August 24th, 2009, 11:54
When the Bugatti Veyron is cruising at a speed of 180 mph steady and accelerates at wide open throttle, the G-force felt is equal to that of the Ford Five Hundred at a 30 mph wide open throttle acceleration.
In attempt to accurately verify the street value of this info, I shared it with the lady in the McDonalds drive-thru.......she still charged $5.30 for a 1/4 Pounder w/cheese meal.
XJosh95
August 25th, 2009, 09:32
In attempt to accurately verify the street value of this info, I shared it with the lady in the McDonalds drive-thru.......she still charged $5.30 for a 1/4 Pounder w/cheese meal.
Man, that's disappointing. I guess Jeopardy is the only place that useless information can warrant any kind of monetary kickback.
kastein
August 25th, 2009, 09:45
There are only four possible bitting depths for each "pin"* in a Jeep lock (16384 possible unique keys.) Doors and Ignition have all seven pins but the glovebox may be opened using any key with the right three cuts at the tip of the blade - only 64 unique combinations!
* they are actually wafers
AIbandit
August 25th, 2009, 10:22
In attempt to accurately verify the street value of this info, I shared it with the lady in the McDonalds drive-thru.......she still charged $5.30 for a 1/4 Pounder w/cheese meal.
:roflmao: that was great.
Stallacrew
August 25th, 2009, 13:24
There are only four possible bitting depths for each "pin"* in a Jeep lock (16384 possible unique keys.) Doors and Ignition have all seven pins but the glovebox may be opened using any key with the right three cuts at the tip of the blade - only 64 unique combinations!
* they are actually wafers
My DD is a S10, and I had a door key and ignition key that were different. I went to the lock smith and watched him re-wafer my ignition so it matched the doors. It was really quite interesting. Chevy used 9 in general I think, but only 8 on the STEN for some reason.
Good info to know.
*EDIT: these had only 4 depths for my key as well, but there are 5 possible.
heyhar
August 25th, 2009, 17:00
GM did have oifferent door and ignition keys, but the blanks were not interchangeable, in fact you could not insert an ignition key in a door, and vice versa. I didn't like it. But, I did like Ford's double sided key, started around '65 or so. Only took Jeep 25 years to catch up!
beakie
August 25th, 2009, 17:09
When the Bugatti Veyron is cruising at a speed of 180 mph steady and accelerates at wide open throttle, the G-force felt is equal to that of the Ford Five Hundred at a 30 mph wide open throttle acceleration.
From TopGear
When the Veyron reaches top speed, it can only keep that speed for 12 minutes until it empties its fuel tank... which kinda doubles as a safety... as the tires will disintegrate after 15minutes at top speed.
grain of salt included, just check your salt shaker, I left a few.
XJosh95
August 25th, 2009, 19:42
[QUOTE=beakie;244537656]From TopGear
When the Veyron reaches top speed, it can only keep that speed for 12 minutes until it empties its fuel tank... which kinda doubles as a safety... as the tires will disintegrate after 15minutes at top speed.
I knew that! And really, really like that little bit of info. :yelclap:
redneckboarder
August 25th, 2009, 19:44
pssh the bugatti is out...the gumpert is now in :)
XJosh95
August 25th, 2009, 19:57
pssh the bugatti is out...the gumpert is now in :)
Uhh...WOW!
tbburg
August 26th, 2009, 17:56
pssh the bugatti is out...the gumpert is now in :)Nah,...
Go for the Splinter.
kastein
October 4th, 2009, 10:48
waking this thread up from the dead for something I was just reminded of today...
The rear main seal for the '01 4.0L engine is different. Everything else uses the BS40612 rear main seal, it uses the BS40183.
GSequoia
October 4th, 2009, 11:06
Other trivia:
if you replace your rear shocks, you will break the bolts in the frame.
As stated before not if your Jeep is from California (or Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, etc).
But if you buy a 1988 Chief that spent time in Ohio they will break. Ultimately you'll be disgusted with the rust and decide to part it out because you're a spoiled Californian.
Any Ford FE engine will have an exhaust manifold leak, this is inevitable.
JNickel101
October 4th, 2009, 18:28
MT:
If you let your 3 year old play with a tool box full of wrenches while you're working on your jeep, she will inevitably realize that the small ones fit perfectly into the oval holes in the sides of your frame rails....resulting in you searching and troubleshooting for MONTHS what that rattling sound is every time you hit a bump.
5-90
October 4th, 2009, 21:52
Any Ford FE engine will have an exhaust manifold leak, this is inevitable.
Assembling any Ford V8 engine takes 3-6 hours. Chasing all of the leaks out takes about two days. Fortunately, the Cleveland Six and Falcon Six weren't designed by the guys that did the V8s, so they don't have that problem.
Don't even get me started on any Ford I4 apart from the 140ci OHC "Pinto" four...
88 Wagonman
October 5th, 2009, 05:40
Don't even get me started on any Ford I4 apart from the 140ci OHC "Pinto" four...
You like that POS 2.3L rattletrap? That is far and away the worst running engine ever taken from automotive and put into boats that I have ever seen! We have a saying at my shop (boat shop) every time we have to work on those: "They don't run good when they're running good."
5-90
October 5th, 2009, 14:39
You like that POS 2.3L rattletrap? That is far and away the worst running engine ever taken from automotive and put into boats that I have ever seen! We have a saying at my shop (boat shop) every time we have to work on those: "They don't run good when they're running good."
I didn't mean that I liked the wretched thing, merely that it was the "least bad option of the lot."
The only Ford engines I actually could be said to "like" are the Cleveland Sixes (240-300ci) and the Falcon Sixes (170-200-250ci).
My general opinion on Ford since the early 1960's can be summed up thusly: "I don't trust a Ford I didn't build."
However, I did have to service three or four GPUs (once upon a time) with various engines, and the only one that was worth half a damn was the one with the Pinto engine - even though it was assembled as a bastard stepchild anyhow (2.3L long block, 2.0L manifolds, Gawd only knows where the bolt-ons came from, ... The oil sump was some weird pan as well, and I think Hobart had their own cam grind for the thing, because it didn't come back to any known application when I had to source a new one...)
The others used grey-market Japanese engines. Ugh.
XJosh95
October 6th, 2009, 12:32
MT:
If you let your 3 year old play with a tool box full of wrenches while you're working on your jeep, she will inevitably realize that the small ones fit perfectly into the oval holes in the sides of your frame rails....resulting in you searching and troubleshooting for MONTHS what that rattling sound is every time you hit a bump.
So, you actually spend time searching for noises?! :laugh2: Sounds like a lot work for an XJ. At least you got your tools back. Kids also find out that Pop Tarts fit perfectly into the VCR. I don't have kids, but I've seen it.
kastein
October 6th, 2009, 12:38
friend of mine discovered that slices of american cheese fit nicely in floppy drives that way too. Pressing the eject button doesn't do very much though.
JNickel101
October 6th, 2009, 12:39
There was a 6th month time period where people were afraid of riding in my jeep - from the rattling noises - they swore something was loose in my suspension....
Finally, when I went to install AJ's Rockrails, I found the culprit....about 5 very small wrenches inside my frame rail :)
MoparManiac
October 6th, 2009, 13:45
As stated before not if your Jeep is from California (or Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, etc).
Or if you use heat.
I'm amazed at the amount of people that say they break these bolts but I've yet to break one when I've used heat. Does no one know what a flame wrench is?
kastein
October 6th, 2009, 13:50
I didn't till you told me about it! I got lucky on my leafs and didn't need the flame wrench, but I have it around now for glassblowing and anything else that requires a lot of heat.
EDIT: more trivia, something I just discovered in the last few days... the TCU on a 97+ XJ can't actually measure how much current the solenoids are drawing, just whether they are open or shorted.
JNickel101
October 6th, 2009, 19:13
Does no one know what a flame wrench is?
....sounds gay....is that a wrench from San Francisco?
88 Wagonman
October 6th, 2009, 19:14
....sounds gay....is that a wrench from San Francisco?
I have always called it a smoke wrench.
kastein
October 6th, 2009, 20:33
....sounds gay....is that a wrench from San Francisco?
well, it is good for getting nuts off I guess.
JNickel101
October 6th, 2009, 21:35
dammit, and i already have an awesome Sig quote....
5-90
October 6th, 2009, 21:52
So, you actually spend time searching for noises?! :laugh2: Sounds like a lot work for an XJ. At least you got your tools back. Kids also find out that Pop Tarts fit perfectly into the VCR. I don't have kids, but I've seen it.
Years ago, I had my kid sister being little to deal with. Bruddah, that was (no) fun:
- PB&J in the Betamax (yeah, it was that long ago. Cost more to replace them than to fix them) gunks everything up.
- Getting your computer (Atari 800XL) stuffed full of quarters doesn't do the blitter (colour graphics) chip a whole lot of good.
- Disc cameras explode when dropped on a cement pad from about twelve feet up.
- Cats don't like being dunked in water, but they like being rescued from water even less. She had to throw the cat right in the middle of the damned pool...
Growing up in Tornado Alley got some interesting experiences as well:
- Yes, a 2x4 can be driven through a two-foot-thick maple tree trunk.
- A chain-link fence will stop another 4x4 post from going through a living room window.
- Getting the neighbour's upside-down steel shed out of your swimming pool is not a job for the weak.
- A 2x4x10' board can be driven through both sides of a van and block traffic
- It takes a tornado about three seconds to clean off a maple tree and an apple tree - every leaf.
I've seen some strange things...
XJosh95
October 8th, 2009, 09:12
- Cats don't like being dunked in water, but they like being rescued from water even less.
Priceless!! :worship:
5-90
October 8th, 2009, 12:14
Priceless!! :worship:
Yeah, I suppose.
God Bless whoever came up with cyanoacrylate ester! I should have scarred very badly from that little experience (I dove in to save the cat fully clothed, got hold of the little )(*#$@)*@), and she tore my right forearm up badly enough to colour about five feet of water around us bright red. Chlorine burns when you get it into fresh raw meat, too!
(I actually didn't carry her out of the pool. I made it about halfway to the edge, got tired of getting my arm shredded, hollered for the superglue, and threw the little )@#($*@()#$* into the maple tree and let her sort herself out while I tried to not get blood on the deck. Still hurts when I think about it - and this was twenty years ago!)
kastein
October 8th, 2009, 13:43
I've never had to superglue myself together, but I have had a couple fingers I ended up putting some sewing thread in... let's just say the thinner the needle, the less it hurts.
Trivia: O2 sensors can go bad without throwing a code. Also, not quite XJ related, but every single Dodge/Plymouth van my parents ever owned at some point developed a bad connection at the blower motor resistor block, which is located under the hood on the passenger side by the hinge. Every single one was a corroded connector that arced internally until it melted, resulting in a horrible electrical burning smell coming through the vents in the cabin till we figured out what was going on.
GSequoia
October 8th, 2009, 14:15
I've never had to superglue myself together, but I have had a couple fingers I ended up putting some sewing thread in... let's just say the thinner the needle, the less it hurts.
On that note Corn Starch works well as an improvised clotting agent if you've got a bleedy cut.
GrimmJeeper
October 8th, 2009, 14:37
Trivia: O2 sensors can go bad without throwing a code.
another fact about O2 sensors... they dont go "bad" very often. more often than not they become too caked with carbon deposits to get an accurate reading, and throw a code. before replacing an O2 sensor spray the tip with oven cleaner and clean it up as best you can, then put it back in. worst case is you see no change and have to buy a new sensor anyway. I've passed smog 3 times doing this.
kastein
October 8th, 2009, 15:06
GrimmJeeper: neat, I'll have to remember that. Any thoughts on using something like throttle body cleaner instead? Seems to me it'd be better because it's the kind of stuff that can get passed through to the sensor anyways, just more concentrated.
On that note Corn Starch works well as an improvised clotting agent if you've got a bleedy cut.
Definitely remembering this also... so far I've mostly had to stitch because I slashed the end of my finger or something, and I kept breaking it open again by touching things.
GrimmJeeper
October 8th, 2009, 16:44
ive always used easy-off brand oven cleaner, its the only thing that will break up burned on carbon. remember throttle body cleaner is only a solvent, it is designed to break up oils and other deposits from the intake side of the engine. once those deposits get burned its a whole different call game.
ehall
October 8th, 2009, 17:51
call game?
one thing I learned today is metric class/grade rule that bolts have major.minor numbers but nuts only have a major number. IE, bolts are 10.9 and nuts are 10. The nut is good for any bolt with the same major class, so a class 10 nut is good for 10.9 bolts.
GrimmJeeper
October 8th, 2009, 21:21
call game? me + beer + keyboard = typos :D
kastein
April 5th, 2010, 10:24
resurrecting this thread...
On the 2.5L engine (at least RENIX 2.5) you'll want an external Torx socket while working on the transmission, but it'll be an E10 not an E12, and it's for removing the starter not the upper bellhousing bolts.
... now I'm glad I bought the whole set of external Torx sockets instead of just the E12...
ehall
May 15th, 2011, 14:53
Today I discovered you can shape JB Weld with masking tape. Here is a coolant port that I had to block off a bit (different gen manifold and head). I used masking tape to form a pocket, then gooped JB Weld into the pocket.
http://www.eric-a-hall.com/gallery/albums/cadillac-4-9-swap/JB_Weld_Water_Tape.sized.jpg
After 5-6 hours it was firm to the touch and I peeled off the tape
http://www.eric-a-hall.com/gallery/albums/cadillac-4-9-swap/JB_Weld_Water_Dam.sized.jpg
Pretty neat
CherBear
May 16th, 2011, 21:31
Huh... that is neat.
GSequoia
May 16th, 2011, 23:57
Today I discovered you can shape JB Weld with masking tape. Here is a coolant port that I had to block off a bit (different gen manifold and head). I used masking tape to form a pocket, then gooped JB Weld into the pocket.
Not to one up you but...
You can use denatured alcohol to thin JB Weld so you can pour a mold. I did this when repairing a radiator (remove fins, pinch off tube, then made a 2" x 4" JB Weld plug, masking the back side with tape).
It takes a little longer to cure but once cured it's nice and hard. It's been holding now for about 23,000 miles without a drop of coolant lost.
No photographs. I was too pissed off that I destroyed a brand new radiator to document the repair.
tbburg
May 17th, 2011, 07:51
I repaired a 5' long split in a cast iron sewer pipe with JB-kwik-weld and fiberglass cloth once. I'don't think there's anything not directly in flame-contact that can't be repaired, at least temporarily, with JB-weld.
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