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8.25 or 8.8?

It depends on your budget and how much effort you want to put into it. Also what kind of wheeling you do. The 8.8 is slightly stronger than the 8.25 and has better aftermarket support. It does, however require some fabrication to install. The 8.25 is an easy bolt in and is plenty strong for all but the most aggressive wheelers.
 
For easy upgrade from the D35 with drum brakes and stock ratios, go with 8.25
For discs, 3.73 or 4.10s and lots of strength WITH FAB INVOLVED go 8.8

Either one can be geared to suit your taste, though the 8.25 only has one selectable locker & two or three auto locker options while the 8.8 has many.
 
It depends on your budget and how much effort you want to put into it. Also what kind of wheeling you do. The 8.8 is slightly stronger than the 8.25 and has better aftermarket support. It does, however require some fabrication to install. The 8.25 is an easy bolt in and is plenty strong for all but the most aggressive wheelers.
I agree, it all depends on your end goal.
The 8.8 has much better aftermarket support and usually cheaper parts. However, the 8.25 aftermarket is growing.
If you plan to regear and/or add a locker, add up all the parts needed for both axles and see where you stand. When I did this a while back, it was cheaper for me to do the 8.8 in the end. Gears and lockers are cheaper, plus you get disc brakes and a stronger axle.
Do weld the tubes if you get an 8.8 though, and as mentioned, unlike the 8.25, the 8.8 is not a bolt in deal.
 
Thanks to everyone for the info. Paulhead That was a great link, awesome info! I can weld and the swap kits seem to be very nice so I believe I will go with the 8.8. Since the price is the same for the rear end them selves. Now I need to figure out what gearing to go with.
 
8.8 FTW! I got mine from Stewie, he also welded the brackets for me (thanks dude!) and with about $60 in brackets you are good to go. Braking is much improved over drums and it is real beefy...just ask my back! 8.8 and dont look back...
 
If you will go over a 33" tire, go with the 8.8; if you will stay at 33" max then an 8.25 is a great option. Depends on how you will gear it, what trails you run, etc.
 
8.8 FTW! I got mine from Stewie, he also welded the brackets for me (thanks dude!) and with about $60 in brackets you are good to go. Braking is much improved over drums and it is real beefy...just ask my back! 8.8 and dont look back...

no problem. glad you like it

like he said, i sold him an 8.8 and welded the perches and shock mount tabs on and welded the tubes to the diff. he ended up with a better gear ratio, disk brakes and beef of an axle.

i am running an 8.25 from an 01 XJ running 35" KM2s- 29 spline, ZJ rear disks, 4.56 gears and a rough stuff diff cover (soon as I get a chance to weld them in its also gonna have RS perches and u bolt plates.

if i didnt already have so much into my 8.25 i would go with an 8.8. but with all that i have invested in my 8.25 and the small increase with the 8.8, im gonna stick with my 8.25
 
Having a '96 XJ with a C8.25 can really be questionable. '96 was a transitional year for rear axle assemblies. One could have the 27 spline or if produced later in the year a 29 spine. I can not check the build because my C8.25 has the tag missing. I would have to pull it apart and count the splines.

Even if it is a 29 spline, I may still go with the '95+ Explorer F8.8 for the larger ring gear and axle tubes, 31 spline count axles, disk brakes, and huge amounts of aftermarket parts available for it compared to the C8.25. To me, getting a Junk Yard assembly for 2 to 4 hundred dollars is worth it compared to the costs of upgrading a C8.25 to anywhere close to what the '95+ Explorer F8.8 offers.

I do not think swapping in an '95+ Explorer F8.8 is that much of a deal compared to the cost of time, labor, and parts to make a C8.25 comparable to the stock '95+ Explorer F8.8 IMHO.

 
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I do not think swapping in an '95+ Explorer F8.8 is that much of a deal compared to the cost of time, labor, and parts to make a C8.25 comparable to the stock '95+ Explorer F8.8 IMHO.

Six of one, half dozen of another.

Is the OP even breaking stuff in a 35?
 
There are a lot of Jeepers, even here in Florida, run with 35s on a Dana 35.

Most Jeepers of most Models, however, rather than gearing up, installing a locker, or having to replace an axle or do an upgrade on a D35.... swap in a different axle assembly. Some go with a Rubicon D44 with 4.10s or Late '80s XJ D44 , Some with a '95+ Ford Explorer 8.8 with 4.10s, and a few go with a Ford 9" or a Dana 60. However, I have yet to see one use a Chevy 14 bolt or a Toyota Assembly as some do. I have yet to see one personally use a C8.25 as a swap in. I believe that is because of the lack of aftermarket products for it and the availability of other choices with better specs and aftermarket support.
 
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I am the OP.
I am buying an '92 xj that does not have a rear end under it right now. I don't want to break stock D35 parts so..... While it has no rear end I want to put one in that will last NO MATTER what I do in the future. That is why I was asking this question. I plan on running 32" or 33" tires for now, but I may want to go to 35" later as money and wheeling time allow. Thanks again for every ones help. I hate to see people start to go back and forth at eachother, that is a Pirate web thing, I thought?
 
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