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Just to clarify...rear shocks

AZCA jeeper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Phoenix, AZ
After searching I've found two ways to mount remote reservoir shocks in the rear: Cut through the floor and mount the reservoirs inside the cab or mount the reservoirs onto the shock body. Now, I'll only be running 10" travel 2.0 shocks, so they aren't so massive I'll need to start cutting the floor away....right?

Now, what I didn't find was how to mount the eye at the top of the shock. The bottom eye is straight forward, just slip it onto the bolt and tighten the nut down. But at the top it's a different story. On my old shocks there is a "prong" or "fork" (best way I can describe it, I do not know the real term) that goes through the eye. Do I just take these out and put them in the new shocks? From the old shock in my hand to the picture of the Fox 2.0's online the eyes look very different, so I'm not sure if the "forks" will fit.:dunno:

I apologize for my lack of knowledge but I'm trying to learn.:looser:
 
The fork is called a bar pin. To mount a shock without the bar pin in the stock location, you either need to press the bar pins from the old shocks in(only possible with rubber or poly bushings) or get a bar pin eliminator kit.

Before you buy those shocks, you'll want to carefully measure your existing shock length, both extended and collapsed to make sure the new ones are going to fit. I don't think a 10" travel shock is going to fit the stock location unless you're carrying a few inches of lift
 
First, do your new shocks have bushings or spherical rod ends(Heims)?Your old shocks probably had rubber bushings with bar pins.Hopefully your new shocks have bushings as well,in which case you just press out the bar pins and press them into the new shocks.If you have heims,then you'll need bar pin elimanaters that fit the inside diameter.Unless you wanted heims,if you ordered your shocks for an XJ, I would think they would come with bushings. Hope that helps. :)

Ha,tbburg got it first
 
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Bar pins! That's what they are! I knew I had heard the term before but couldn't remember.

I'm running about 4.5" of lift and I have placed the Jeep on a hydraulic lift and taken careful measurements. After looking at the pin bar eliminator kit I think it'll be easier to simply go that route.

These are the shocks I'm planning on getting (have not ordered them yet)
http://www.offroadwarehouse.com/products/sfID1/12/sfID2/113/sfID3/94/productID/172
 
heres a pic (one of my rear 2.0 10" foxes)
image002sr3.jpg

image002sr3.jpg
 
Just realized the shocks I was looking at are going to be fully compressed 2" before everything hits to bumpstops. Is there any way I can order them to be about 14" compressed and 26" extended (so a 12" travel shock)?I'm not sure I want to extend my bumpstops because I still want that extra 2" of up travel.
 
Are you on stock bumps now? If everything is fully compressed 2" before you hit bump, add a 2-3" block under your current bump stop.

I am indeed. And I was considering that but I thought new bumpstops would just be easier. :laugh2:

Though I know it's not that much work. Some square tubing, tracing, drilling, and longer bolts.
 
Not really. I mean I'll be going down the washes faster than normal, but nothing even remotely close to how fast you guys go. My main terrain consists of rocks and hill climbs, but who says you can't have a little fun while getting there.:clap: I'm slowly trying to build a rig that works well both going fast and slow.
 
bump happens.

that being said, i run stock bumps. with drop brackets on the frame side.


dont forget to wax your shock bodies, for longeviety, works wonders.
 
Now the question is, will you be doing go fast stuff with it? Cause if you are then the stock bumps are going to HURT when you hit them. Go with a good poly bump.

I extended my rear bump stops with 2" square tubing. Jim is right- they hurt when you hit. Definetley get some poly bumps.
 
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