• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

aw4 took a puke!

Fidget360

NAXJA Forum User
:puke:so I went up to Colorado this last week and was fully planning on taking my jeep on the approx. 1000 mile trip. What better place to have your jeep, right? well, we got about an hour away and the guy behind me in our caravan pulled up beside me to tell me that I was smoking. Upon pulling off and inspecting, I found tranny oil leaking from inside the bell-housing, so no jeep in CO:rattle:. I'm running a 6.5" lift with 33" bfg muds and 3.55's did I just over work it and cook the front pump seal? I was, afterall, trying to keep up with the leader of the caravan who was pushing 80mph.
 
no ideas huh? anyone?
 
usually from prior experience smoking aw4's have a leaking cooler quick disco.... unfortunately it does not sound like you have it so easy...


really wish i knew more about AT's
 
Where was the smoke actually coming from? Leaking onto the exhaust? Or was the tranny itself smoking? If the latter, You've got a bigger issue than a leaky frontseal
 
Sometimes when the AW4 gets hot enough it will vomit out of the dipstick tube.

Some posters recommend going to a higher quality (synthetic?) fluid is the fix.
 
The smoke was coming from the fluid leaking onto the exhaust, no doubt about it. I was then able to put about a quart and a half of fluid into it and drive it an hour home at low speed (around 55-60) with no smoke/leak. It has now sat in the same place for a week with no evidence of a leak underneath it. (at least I don't think so, a week is a long time for oil to sit in the driveway and still look fresh...)
 
Sounds like ya overheated it.. As mentioned above, it spit out the the fill tube.

If it's shifting okay now,change the fluid and install a trans cooler.

Good Luck

Nick
 
Get some gears!
 
Only time I had tranny fluid spit out the dipstick tube onto the exhaust, it was because I overfilled it. I apologize for the basic question, but the dipstick did check low before you added the quart and a half, didn't it?
 
A Search may help. Try transmission overheating

I use an OTA External Transmission Cooler and a 3 Core HD All Metal Radiator, Hi Flow Water Pump, Hi Flow Thermostat Housing & Thermostat.

It is better to bypass the Radiator and go with a 30,000 to 40,000 GVW Transmission Cooler so that there is better flow and cooling of Fluid especially if your XJ is Used for Crawling or Towing. IMHO I used to have to change out my Fluid every 6 months because it was burnt. It's Extremely hot in Tampa, FL

I Mounted mine Like GoJeep has his: http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAutoCooler.htm

TaurusFan29_small.jpg


Some come with a External Thermal Bypass for Cold Climates others Not. If you live in a Cool Climate just Buy a Cooler with the Bypass. IMHO


heatchrt.jpg


Here is info from: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/cooler-info.html

The most often asked question is should I bypass the radiator cooler when I install a auxillary cooler.
Most cooler manufactures and automobile manufactures information we have read, recommends installing the coolers In-Series with the factory radiator cooler for maxium cooling efficiency.
So unless the manufactures who have spent 1000's of hours testing different installations are wrong, the suggested cooler installation is in-series......
Transmission > Radiator cooler > Auxillary cooler > then Back to the transmission.
If you must bypass the radiator because the cooler tube is leaking or for other reasons, be sure to increase the size cooler you install by 1 to 2 sizes. I Bypassed the Radiator, I Live in Florida, and I go Offroad so that is why I went with the 40,000 GWV Cooler (.

Pickup Trucks, SUV's
Towing up to 7,500 lbs.
# Coolers with GVW ratings of 22,000 to 26,000 lbs.

HD Trucks, Motor homes
Towing up to 10,000 lbs.
# Coolers with GVW ratings of 22,000 to 30,000 lbs.

Super Duty trucks
Large Motor homes
# Coolers with GVW ratings of 28,000 lbs. and UP

transcharttemps.gif


* Millions of automatic transmissions fail every year from overheating. If you tow a boat, trailer, camper or drive in Stop & Go traffic you risk overheating your transmission fluid.When your transmission fluid reaches 200o it starts breaking down.
* Transmission coolers help extend the life of your transmission fluid and can prevent transmission failure from overheating.
* At 240 degrees varnishes form and transmission life expectancy is cut in half.
* At 260 degrees the transmissions internal seals and rubber parts harden and major damage starts.
* Above 295 degrees you transmission start slipping, clutches burn out and carbon forms.
* With each 20 degrees drop in operating temperature, your fluid and equipment life doubles.
* Installing a cooler before damage starts and by reducing the transmission fluid temperature by as much as 60o can greatly extend the life of your transmission.
* Installing a transmission cooler can prevent transmission burnout.

Tru-Cool 4739 MAX with Thermal Bypass Valve TC-4739
For Vehicles with 3/8" Transmission Lines
YOUR COST: $143.00

Source: http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=205

The Thermostat is set at 90 degrees according to Tech Support.

http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=trucool-MAX-cooler


# 4739 Tru-Cool MAX transmission cooler with external thermal bypass
The Thermostat is set at 90 degrees according to Tech Support.

Tru-Cool # LPD4739, 40,000 GVW rating, 45,000 BTU rating
8 1/2 x 22 3/4 x 1 1/4 inch
3/8 inverter flare (fittings are included for thread to hose barbs) Includes external thermal bypass for cold climates!

$140.00


# 47391 Tru-Cool MAX transmission cooler *No external cold weather thermal bypass

# LPD47391 Tru-Cool 40,000 GVW rating, 45,000 BTU rating
8 1/2 x 22 3/4 x 1 1/4 with 3/8 inverter flare (fittings are included for thread to hose barbs)
*No external thermal bypass*Great choice for southern states where the winters are mild.

$118.00

# 4921-1 Tru-Cool MAX transmission cooler (Medium Max)

3/8" hose barbs on side of cooler.
Size 6 x 23 x 3/4 inch
WITHOUT external thermal bypass!
12 plates, 30,000 GVW / 34,000 BTU ratings

$92.00

# OTA Cooler

Part No. 4739
Price: $129.95

40,000# GVW rating transmission oil cooler. 8 1⁄2 x 22 3⁄4 x 1 1⁄4 193 sq. in. cooling area Reduces heat related failures during severe duty conditions such as towing or exhaust brake usage. BTU Rating 45,000

http://www.suncoastconverters.com/ford/e4od/forde4odcoolers.html

40000otacooler.jpg



Hope this will help someone.
 
I agree, keeping trans temps in check is very important. A cooler with an electric fan and temp sending unit would be a good option to.
 
Sometimes when the AW4 gets hot enough it will vomit out of the dipstick tube.

Some posters recommend going to a higher quality (synthetic?) fluid is the fix.


NONONONONONONONONO


never ever put synthetic in an aw4 transmission. especially a used one. the brass/graphite in the clutch packs is not designed for synthetic lubricant. it WILL detonate if you put synth in a used tranny.


some people switch to synthetic off the show room floor and never have any issues. I wouldn't ever do it, but they have.

I can just tell everyone here that the only time I've had issues with an aw4 was when I put synthetic in it to test the theory. ended up cooking the tranny so bad that I lost all gears unless going downhill (getting it up-hill was very tiring:doh:). use dexron atf +3 or +4


as far as your specific tranny, you overheated it, cooked it, boiled out the fluid, and probably burnt the fluid that's left in it. give it a trans. and cooling line flush along with new gasket and filter, and install a large aftermarket tranny cooler and you should be good to go.
 
NONONONONONONONONO


never ever put synthetic in an aw4 transmission. especially a used one. the brass/graphite in the clutch packs is not designed for synthetic lubricant. it WILL detonate if you put synth in a used tranny.


some people switch to synthetic off the show room floor and never have any issues. I wouldn't ever do it, but they have.

I can just tell everyone here that the only time I've had issues with an aw4 was when I put synthetic in it to test the theory. ended up cooking the tranny so bad that I lost all gears unless going downhill (getting it up-hill was very tiring:doh:). use dexron atf +3 or +4


as far as your specific tranny, you overheated it, cooked it, boiled out the fluid, and probably burnt the fluid that's left in it. give it a trans. and cooling line flush along with new gasket and filter, and install a large aftermarket tranny cooler and you should be good to go.

Couldnt disagree more,Ive never ran anything but synthetics in all 5 of my XJ's.It doesnt get any hotter than here and I also tow my trailer when we wheel more than a few hours away(lots of mountain grades).Ive never had any problems at all!
 
and you're probably one in one thousand.


run factory recommended lubricants in the AW4 transmission. DO NOT switch to synthetic.
 
as I said, you are probably one in a thousand.

I've built a good 12-15 jeeps now, roughly half were 5 speeds, the other half were AW4. the ONE time that I put synthetic in a high miles transmission, it blew within 300 miles. many on the board will agree with me, that standard factory spec. transmission fluid is the way to go with an AW4.

you have a different experience. good for you. Any time I read about someone putting synthetic in their aw4, I usually advise them against it. several times I've had them come back with transmission problems.


now, as I said, the only time I would even consider switching to synthetic is on an aw4 transmission with low miles. i.e. under 20k and even then I'd prefer it straight off the show room floor.

the reason is that the clutch packs are NOT designed for synthetic fluid. simple as that. they decrease viscosity in the clutch packs, causing the clutch packs to wear the brass bushings against the graphite discs, and ultimately destroy the clutch disc....thus no more grab which means no more driving.
 
Mercon III is the only thing I use I tried the synth and it was crap made my transmission shift horrible and heat way up...

themud
I have the same hills as you RCP its just about luck sometimes but I use only the factory specd tranny fluid...
 
I use Royal Purple Synthetics in Everything Except my AW4 now. I tried Royal Purple ATF+4 and had Slipping Issues so I Replaced it with MERCON IV ATF and Everything is Fine now. I do use Royal Purple ATF+4 in my NP 231 since it's all Gear and Chain and Doesn't have Clutch Packs.
 
Back
Top