Just installed 4.5 RE lift but don't have even clearance on front fenders

So after installing all of my RE components on my 98 XJ and installed my 33 BFG all terrains i have a rubbing issue on flat ground. Now i did expect to have to trim some to fit BUT the problem im having is that with the tires turned to one side the tire will clear just enough to make the turn and hit the steering stop no problem, but when i turn the wheel the other way the opposing side of the vehicle's tire will hit before i can make a complete turn. I am talking about hitting the inner fender flare/fender closest to the door. I am curious as to why they are not the same clearance on both sides...? My Upper control arms are set dead on the same length(per install sheet) and lowers are non adjustable. I am cool with trimming to fit, but i ask why they are not symetrical on clearance. I have not gotten a professional alignment, but i got it close to speck. I also aligned my steering wheel the best i could. So what could it be?

Track (panhard) bar.

If your driver's side tire is hitting, then the axle is too far to the passenger side.

If your passenger's side tire is hitting, then the axle is too far to the driver side.

/thread!!

yup, like he said, trackbar keeps your axle centered under the jeep

Hey yeah what is the best way to try and center the axel to be able to get it adjusted? I got the adj. track bar but it doesnt seem like i could get it centerd very well. Im a perfectionist. hah

I also herd about caster adjustments on the control arms? How do these work? How to adjust? and why would it be out of alignment if was left alone?

Ewen91 said:

Hey yeah what is the best way to try and center the axel to be able to get it adjusted? I got the adj. track bar but it doesnt seem like i could get it centerd very well. Im a perfectionist. hah

Click to expand...

to center the axle hang some plum bobs on the inside of your fenders (if theyre not all dented) then measure to the edge of tire.

the castor is off because of the lift, when u installed the longer springs or spacers it caused the bottom of the axle to rotate toward the rear, to adjust this use adjustable control arms or instal shims int the lca mount hopefully someone with more knowledge t han me will chime in onn this

I'm not sure you can even use shims on the RE setups. Besides the adjustable LCA's there is also a bit of forward and back movement on the LCA brackets to adjust castor, least the 5.5 has that feature, lol. I believe like the others said, it's your track bar needing adjusted. If you don't have a plumb bob, big washers work nicely to with some thread tied to them, they hang down and give location on the tire, just mark the tire tread with a sharpie and measure, repeat for other side

if its 4"of lift you will need about 1" longer than stock track bar

Ewen91 said:

Hey yeah what is the best way to try and center the axel to be able to get it adjusted? I got the adj. track bar but it doesnt seem like i could get it centerd very well. Im a perfectionist. hah

I also herd about caster adjustments on the control arms? How do these work? How to adjust? and why would it be out of alignment if was left alone?

Click to expand...

Leave the track bar attached to the unibody mount.

Remove the track bar bolt at the axle and move the bar out of the way--hang it with wire or bungee cord.

Bounce the front up and down for a bit.

Adjust the track bar length so the trackbar/axle/bolt can be reassembled.

Measure at the fenders as described above--if you don't have a plumbob just use string and a weight of some kind.

Have the caster checked at an alignment shop, I believe you want it as close to +7 as possible, and you can shim at the LCA mounts.