Help! - Front axle won't droop for lift install

'98 Sport, standard suspension. We're trying to install an RC 4.5, but the lift itself is irrelevant at this point...

- Shocks removed
- Sway bar disconnected
- Spring retainers removed
- Brake lines have plenty of slack

All of this is done, and we let the axle droop....only, it doesn't. It falls down just to where the tension is almost gone from the springs. We can't get the factory springs out, much less put in springs 4.5" longer. There are no tight lines, and there is no interference with any other parts. We can push down - hard - on the end of the axle, and it doesn't even budge.

In the words of Hank Hill, "What the hell, Bobby!" Any idea on what the heck is going on here?

I just installed a 4.5" Zone and had a similar issue......The lower control arm bushings were seized and didn't allow much movement and I didn't remove any of the steering components. What about the track bar? Shouldn't that be undone from the axle as well?

I still ended up using a spring compressor to get the springs in with the control arms off.

Remove the track bar should give you some more room to play with. I piced up spring compressors from local parts shop made it easy scared up the paint a little on the springs though. The best parts is they take a deposit and when you bring them back you get your money back.

Spring compressors will be needed for a 4.5" lift. It's not dropping because of your upper and lower control arms. My 4.5" lift came with new lower arms and I had to install those first before reinstalling the new coils. In order to get the new coils on, you'll need spring compressors.

all you have to do is disconnect your shocks and take your stock bottle jack and put it between your lower control arm and frame rail. Jack the axle down watching the brake lines to not overextend them. I've put in 6" coils using this method with room to spare. Should only take you 15 min. per side to install the coils this way.

Did you loosen the control arm bolts? The bushings are pressed into the arms, and the inner sleeve is clamped down between the ears of the control arm by the bolt. As you drop the axle, the bushings are twisting to take up the slack.

Loosen all 8 bolts while you're doing the lift install, then tighten them back up with the weight on the axle. You'll have to do this anyway, or the bushings will rip out pretty quickly once you start driving it again.

i have never used a spring compressor ( to damn dangerous) i always take off the trac bar, and the lowers and the drag link. this allows for you to put the 4" springs in with no problem.

It's the track bar, disconnect it. Your stock arms are bushings and the track bar is pulling the axle sideways as it droops, thus making it bind up before it droops out enough. You're hopefully going to be putting a new track bar on it anyway so take that bad boy off

i agree... keep unbolting stuff!

I have 5"s of Lift Front and Back, Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms (Short Arms). The arc of the Axle at this height Compressed the Front Driveshaft towards the Transfer Case when the Axle is in a dropped position.

At rest on Pavement looking at the FDS where it meets the Diff... there was little to no play.

I did have Front Driveshaft Compression issues at Full Drop with my Short Arm Kit at 5"s of Lift... I suggest having the Front Driveshaft Shortened 1 3/4"s with a Short Arm Kit over 4 1/2"s. I had this done and it was about $50. Before Shortening my Front Driveshaft... my Front Driveshaft Blew the U-Joint and Punched a Huge Hole in my Transfer Case after going OffRoad and then on the Freeway. After I shortened the Front Driveshaft I had even more Drop than before.

These are just Recommendations.

Installing a Control Arm Drop Kit if you choose to go that way:

http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f22/rc-drop-bracket-installation-430/#post5945

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=942905




If you need Front Bump Stops...

I would suggest getting Front Bump Stop Extensions from Rubicon Express that bolt to the bottom Spring Perches as opposed to extending the length of the Factory Bump Stops. The problem with extending the Factory Set is that they can get hung up in your Springs while flexing. I have broke a Daystar Extended Bump Stop off before.

Yes, one could use Hockey Pucks, too. IMHO

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Jeep/XJ/Products.aspx?folder=XJBS

jeeperguy21 said:

Spring compressors will be needed for a 4.5" lift. It's not dropping because of your upper and lower control arms. My 4.5" lift came with new lower arms and I had to install those first before reinstalling the new coils. In order to get the new coils on, you'll need spring compressors.

Click to expand...

He lies.
Shoes work just as well as compressors. I had one of us pushing the end of the axle down with his foot while I squeezed my RE 4.5" coil somewhat on, then I kicked it kinda hard and it went right into place.

You gotta disconnect your trac bar, LCAs, and shocks, too.
Just to be safe and make things easier I took the calipers off, too. Then you don't have to worry about your lines.

Another method that I used to get my RE 3.5 springs which I thought was safer than spring compressors. I disconnected the track bar and LCAs as others have said and then with the axle hanging loose, put my jack under the axle tube on the opposite side of the spring I was trying to get out and jacked it up. That made the other side droop nearly to the ground and voila!

Eric

I have found that the easiest methode of doing 4.5" lists is to:
Suspend the Jeep from tall jackstands just behind the LCA brackets.
Then:
*Remove swaybar links.
*Remove front shocks.
*Remove trackbar and trackbar bracket (get's it completely out of the way).
*Remove brake calipers and tie them up.
*Remove spring retainer clips.
*Loosen all CA bolts, but remove the lower rear bolts.

That should drop the axle, but it will swing by the upper control arms. The springs will fall out. Install new springs and jack up axle. The hard part is re-installing the bolts in the LCAs, but I have found that a bottle jack between the LCA and the axle will swing the bottom forward and towards the front.

I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it is less work than doing it 1/2 assed, failing, and having to remove more stuff anyway.

-Ron

crazyjim said:

It's the track bar, disconnect it. Your stock arms are bushings and the track bar is pulling the axle sideways as it droops, thus making it bind up before it droops out enough. You're hopefully going to be putting a new track bar on it anyway so take that bad boy off

Click to expand...

Ding Ding Ding ............ X2:thumbup: