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d30 u joint tips???

J

jeepnleo

NAXJA Forum User
Location
oak harbor wa
So I need to replace my passenger side u joint.

I have a 1990 xj 4.0 aw4 np231 3 inch lift and 31s. Will probably not go any larger then 33s with 4.5 inch lift.

I have searched and found plenty of interesting things. But not to much.

So I asking for some advice.

Like what brand should I buy?

What's the best brand for a bargan budget builder?

I am not sure what year but I know that the xj went with better u joints. Should I try to go with that axle?

Any tips on removal and install.

Thanks in advance.
 
Spicer joints work great, get greasable ones if you can. The early model years w/ ABS had large joints, the late body style all came with them to the best of my knowledge. These are the 297x or Spicer 760 joints, identical to what a d44 runs. With 33's you will be fine running spicers and welding the caps in to keep them from coming out.

-Alex
 
theres some alloy u-joints in the vendor section, and use a big bench vice and the "bigger" and "smaller" socket trick so easy.
 
I have to pull the shaft or buy replacemnet shafts for the years with the larger u joints in order to run the larger joints correct? I just can't get larger joints and put them in my current shafts right?
 
Ok thanks alex that is what I figured.

So here is the plan, buy some shcucks or autozone cheapo u joints just to get the jeep safe and drivable. Then buy new shaft with the larger u joints or scour junk yards and classifieds for the larger u joint type shafts.
 
jeepnleo said:
Ok thanks alex that is what I figured.

So here is the plan, buy some shcucks or autozone cheapo u joints just to get the jeep safe and drivable. Then buy new shaft with the larger u joints or scour junk yards and classifieds for the larger u joint type shafts.
Click to expand...

That should work, when you get new shafts buy some unit bearings too, keep your small joint shafts for spares with the hubs attached. If you break a shaft swap the whole assembly, it goes quicker that way.

-Alex
 
I'm not 100% with Ba-Reido here. I don't reccomend greasable joints. I reccomend Spicer 5-760x joints. I also don't reccomend welding the caps, I'd grind out the yoke a tad and use full circle clips. It makes disassembly and reassembly smoother.

I've broken 2 ring gears, and not one u-joint since I switched. I have broken one greasable u-joint and it took my brand new Warn alloy inner shaft with it.

Yes you will need newer shafts to use the larger u-joints.
 
I'd go ahead and splurge on the Spicer joints for the stock shafts. They don't cost all that much more then the cheap ones. If you don't have the bigger joint shafts yet, you don't know how long the current ones will be in place.

Be sure to loosen the spindle nuts on the front BEFORE you start pulling everything apart. The easiest way is to pull the tires, remove the center caps, reinstall the tires, set it down and use a really big breaker bar. The socket is a 36mm. If you don't have one you can rent one from Autozone, etc.
 
Either that, or a good impact wrench. When I removed my axle nuts the first time (after about 250,000 miles), I had to soak in PB Blaster for 2 days...going out to the garage every 2-3 hours and trying it...finally it broke loose. And I have a mondo air impact wrench! Just be patient...it will break loose eventually.

And, regarding carrying spare axles with the unit bearings. That's OK if you've got old bearings to begin with. But if you've replaced the unit bearings recently, buying spares is expensive. I'd just carry the 36mm socket and a good ratchet...change the axle on the trail and leave the bearing in place. they're not cheap and carrying spare axles w/o the unit bearings takes up lots less space.

Just my $0.02.
 
Spicers are good, but JustDifferentials bought alloy usa stock and has a ton of them. You can pick one up from them for $38 with full circle clips!
 
goodburbon said:
I'm not 100% with Ba-Reido here. I don't reccomend greasable joints. I reccomend Spicer 5-760x joints. I also don't reccomend welding the caps, I'd grind out the yoke a tad and use full circle clips. It makes disassembly and reassembly smoother.
Click to expand...

x2.

Especially if you wear out the joints quicker than you destroy them. And on 33s, I'd be willing to bet that will be the case.
 
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