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which locker is best for me?

S

swampboy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
washington
Im still kind of on the side lines as to which locker I should get.I've got just a 3" lift with 31" mud terrain tires. I'm pretty sure that I don't want to go any higher than that. its not my daily driver anymore however, the few past winters I've had to drive it kind of regular because of all the snow and ice i the season. when I'm driving it on the weekend fun I like to hit the snow when the season is here and occasionally hit some mud with it. The locker that I've been impressed by for the price and everything is the aussie locker, but at the same rate the arb would seem like the ultimate way to go. I don't really feel like putting a bunch of money into a dana 30 though. I also want to do a locker for the rear also,its a chrysler 8.25 27 spline. people have told me that if I were put like a lockright in the front that it wander on the road. has anyone had these kind of problems before? also am I going to have to worry about breaking axle shafts or not? any imput would be great thanks.
 
cher96 said:
I vote Selectable in Front and an Auto Locker (LunchBox) in the Rear where it is most beneficial.

Detroit, Lockright, or Aussie (in that order) for the Rear.

For the front

Go with a Selectable for the front... The very best is the OX Locker and is less expensive than an Air or Electric Selectable. ARB Locker Kit plus Air Pump= Big Bucks.

No wires to short out. No hoses to crack or brake or Air Pump to worry about.

On slippery, rainy, icy, or snowy surfaces a selectable is always the best for the front. When unselected the wheels spin like an open diff and you will not have to worry about it suddenly locking up and taking you where you have never been before. It's very difficult to make normal turns with a LunchBox on the Front. The front end feels like it's on ice and your turning radius is cut short.I will never go with anything else but a selectable for the front.

I have seen People go up Inclines and hit Mud or Sand and their LunchBox wouldn't let them Steer. I have driven in Heavy Rain here in Florida and the Oil, Grit, Rubber, Sand have kept me going straight without a Locker... heaven forbid I had a LunchBox in the Front.


2usd2tw.jpg



* 100% MADE IN THE USA.
* Lockers are made of 8620 steel. SAME AS RING AND PINION GEARS
* Only FORGED and heat treated steel. NO CAST PARTS HERE
* Exclusive 4 spider gear design on ALL OX Lockers.
* HEAVY DUTY Steel Diff Cover. Included FREE with each locker
* “Back Cut” gear tooth locking ring and locking gear. DESIGNED FOR MAXIMUM LOCKING FORCE!
* 100% mechanical design with cable and shifter.
* Optional Air Actuation System.


If you choose you could go with any of these options:

Manual shifter OX-SHFT

Air actuation system OXA1001

Electronic shifter OXE1001


OX Lockers for the following aplications:


Dana 30 3.73 and up, 27 spline OXD30C373H-27

Dana 30 3.73 and up, 30 spline OXD30C373H-30

Dana 35 3.55 and up, 27 spline OXD35C355H-27

Dana 35 3.55 and up, 30 spline OXD35C355H-30

Dana 44 3.73 and dn,30 spline OXD44C373D-30

Dana 44 3.92 and up, 30 spline OXD44C392H-30

Dana 44 3.92 and up, 33 spline OXD44C392H-33

Dana 44 JK, Non Rubicon, 30 spline OXD44JK-30

Dana 60 4.10 and dn, 35 spline OXD60C354H-35

Dana 60 4.10 and dn, 30 spline OXD60C354H-30

Dana 60 4.56 and up, 35 spline OXD60C456H-35

Dana 60 4.56 and up, 30 spline OXD60C456H-30

Ford 8.8 2.73 and up, 31 spline OXF88C273H-31

AMC 20 3.08 and up, 29 spline OXA20C308H-29

Yes, they are working on a Chrysler 8.25 Locker and its in testing right now.


http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/Home/tabid/365/Default.aspx


OX

440 S. Pinellas Ave

Tarpon Springs, FL 34689


Technical Support: 727-230-7803

Fax: 727-232-3721


Email at:

[email protected]


Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]
 
Throw an aussie in the front. You will never even know its there in 2 wd. It will be a little quirky on the snow in 4x4.

For the rear only do a selectable locker, auto lockers are "harsh" on the highway

BTW: did you search? This has been covered about eleventy billion times
 
I have Aussies front and rear, drive in all condtions (dry, wet, snow, ice, city, highway). The following pertains to ALL autolockers.

As long as you dont threshold brake down to the apex of turn in slick conditions where the inside tire starts to slip kicking in the locker and causing the front end to wash out you wont have a problem in dry or wet conditions. The key to avoiding this to NOT drive your XJ like a sports car in slick conditions. Brake then turn then accelerate and you wont have a problem.

In patchy ice and snow the autolockers get interesting. On the road when braking if you hit a patch of ice one tire will lock up kicking in the locker which will cause the other tire to get additional braking force, same as threshold braking above, but in this case it will unlock as soon as you come off the patch of ice and it repeats itself if you hit another patch of ice. This causes a wicked lock/unlock/lock shock in the front end usually accompanied with a little steering pull. After it happens the first time you will be ready for it and its not a problem. The best way to avoid it is drive like your ice or snow, slower, smoother and more gentle.

On the trail if you are driving on sheet ice (next to zero traction), especially off camber, when the autolocker kicks in (rear, not front this time) the rear end will instanly seek the low side of the road and try to spin you. The spool rules in these conditions and open is not half bad.

If autolockers were as danagerous as a lot folks try and make them out to be all the manufacturers would be out of business.

All that said, if you can drop the coin, get a selectable. If you cant then get an luchbox (I really like my Aussies) and give it a try. You can always take it back out if you dont like it and its only a couple hundred bucks.

Search on "Locker Snow" and you will get several pages of hits. Listen to the folks who live in snow country. Here is one thread:http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=995164&highlight=locker+snow

John
 
Last edited:
OP, I'd recommend a rear locker, but you have the weak 27-sp 8.25. I'd recommend a rear axle swap to a 29sp 8.25, D44, or Ford 8.8. When you have a stronger axle,then put a locker in the rear. I've had a powertrax no-slip in my 8.25 for about a year and I love it. I drive it on the road/highway almost every day and have never had a problem. Driving in icy conditions is perfectly fine if you know how to drive a RWD vehicle. Just don't get on or off the gas too quickly, because the locker will tend to make your vehicle jerk to one side a bit. Still, nothing to worry about if you drive like a normal person and not like a nut.


Turfzilla said:
For the rear only do a selectable locker, auto lockers are "harsh" on the highway
Click to expand...

What does harsh mean? I drive 30 miles each way to work, mostly highway, and haven't had a single problem with my no-slip. I drive 3 hours to Rausch Creek for wheeling and haven't had a problem with it. Drove 5 hours at 80+ mph to Snowshoe mountain up and down huge hills and through winding roads and didn't have any issues. Most of the time I can't even tell the locker is there. The only times I can is when I want to have fun and spin the tires in the rain or snow and do fishtails or donuts. I drove to work in 4 inches of snow and I'm sure the locker only helped.

I've never had a front locker, but if I had to make the choice again, I'd definitely do the rear without question. Why get a locker in the front that I'm barely going to use.
 
swampboy said:
I don't really feel like putting a bunch of money into a dana 30 though.
Click to expand...

A Dana 30 with nothing bigger than 31s is a good place to spend money. If you want the selectable locker, do it. It's going to be super strong only running 31s. No shame in spending money in it if you aren't going bigger. Buddy of mine had an OME suspension with air lockers front and back...and he only ran 31s for years. It drove better than stock and the lockers were completely invisible. I vote for air locker so you're not 'stuck' with a locked front when you need 4wd.
 
You mentioned the ARB as a choice, so cost's apparently not an issue. I haven't heard anything about them recently, but Tractech markets the Detroit Electrac. It's an electric locker built on the Detroit Trutrac differential. If you run in snow/ice a lot, and money isn't an object, you might want to consider this one. It cost's more then the basic ARB, but you don't need an air system to run it, so it ends up being cheaper to install then
the ARB. When it's unlocked, it's a limited slip, which works great in the slippery stuff.
 
E-locker.
After jumping the gun on an E-locker for my D30, I'm a believer of selectable lockers. People tell me it's not worth having one in a D30, they cost to much, etc. But none of them have an E-locker. Way worth it IMO. Not to mention you don't have to worry about the cable on an OX and the air lines on an ARB. There's almost nothing to go wrong (when compared to other selectables).

~Scott
 
i have a 4.5" lift on 31's. D30 front and D35 rear (also a 27 spline for those keeping score)

Front is locked with an ARB, rear is locked with a Detroit. truck does great off road, i do better than friends open on 33s. when i can't flex anymore (which takes a lot), it doesn't really matter with all that traction. just finished my stroker install, and the 35 is still holding up ok. just keep it easy on the stupid pedal. (and finish the 44 build)

to put any money into either axle, my vote goes to the ARB (or any selectable locker) in the front. just about any modern jeep has a Dana30 in the front, and you will be able to sell it very easily on e-bay should you choose to get rid of it. D30 can be good up to 35-37" tires, again, if you take it easy on the stupid pedal. find a 29 spline 8.25 and throw a LSD in there. that is a really good combination
 
sunburned said:
What does harsh mean?
Click to expand...

I personally experience a pulling to the right under acceleration and the opposite during initial deceleration when i first let off the gas it pulls to the left.

If this was my DD, I would have already pull the nonselectable locker out of the rear. I do not like the way it drives, but it is managable, just not desireable for me.
 
Turfzilla said:
I personally experience a pulling to the right under acceleration and the opposite during initial deceleration when i first let off the gas it pulls to the left.

If this was my DD, I would have already pull the nonselectable locker out of the rear. I do not like the way it drives, but it is managable, just not desireable for me.
Click to expand...

I have a detroit in the back of mine. Lock right in the front. I don't even notice them. I can floor it and it will track perfectly straight. Maybe there is something wrong in your setup causing this?
 
I have a lockright in my "weak" 27 spline 8.25. You defininately know it's there when cornering on the pavement. It does great offroad. As far as I know it's the only lunchbox locker for a 27spline 8.25.
 
If you're staying at that size tire, then aussies will be fine.

Nosigma is correct, people get way over cautious with lockers in snow. You're driving in snow, lockers give more traction!! Don't drive like an idiot, and you're better off than if you were open. If you don't know what you're doing they could be mildly scary, but as long as you know you're locked, you're fine. The only time I ever engage 4x4 in my jeep that's locked F/R on the road is if the snow is deep. When the conditions are variable, I'm usually in 2....because I grew up in New England and I'm used to driving in the snow and ice and crap...a lot!! Drive accordingly. Don't be scared by people who tell you lockers are bad in the snow. I've noticed most of them are from states where they don't get any snow!!

If you're going over 33s, I would not run a lunchbox in the D30. Not because the lunchbox locker can't take it, but because the Dana 30 carrier can't take it. Over 33s, you'll want a full case (detroit) locker up front. I like my detroits f/r in any conditions!

If you are thinking selectable, and can only afford to do either front or rear selectable, I would recommend doing the rear selectable. Reasoning: Tire wear. In 2 wheel drive, a locked front end = an open front end. The tires dont' wear any different than if the front was open. The same is not true for the rear!! If you're running ATs or MTs, then it's really not an issue, but if you have any kind of swamper....they wear down fast in the rear with a locker. Even though you don't hear them squeeling, because they're soft compound and don't squeel very much, they are wearing away. If I'm pulling out across a road at the same angle, under the same heavy throttle with my TSLs on as I'm doing with my ATs on, I'm not going to hear anything (although I'll be leaving lots of TSL behind) with the swampers while I will hear chirping with the ATs. ATs dont' wear down as fast as TSLs.

Anyways, I say lock that thing up!! Best mod you'll ever do. 31s locked F/R is a TON of fun!! And with the 31s, don't worry about the 27 spline 8.25. Although, if your gonna spend 250ish on a locker for the axle, see if you can't get a 29 spline 8.25 for real cheap to swap in. If not, the 27 is fine.
 
Turfzilla said:
I personally experience a pulling to the right under acceleration and the opposite during initial deceleration when i first let off the gas it pulls to the left.

If this was my DD, I would have already pull the nonselectable locker out of the rear. I do not like the way it drives, but it is managable, just not desireable for me.
Click to expand...

I have two jeeps, depending on which one is being worked on, the other is the DD. Both are locked in the rear (only one locked up front as of now). I wouldn't have it any other way. I think it sucks driving non-locked vehicles.

If I were the president, or god, I would require that all vehicles come with automatic locking rear diffs. And dana 60s minimum....
 
mjma said:
Anyways, I say lock that thing up!! Best mod you'll ever do. 31s locked F/R is a TON of fun!! And with the 31s, don't worry about the 27 spline 8.25.
Click to expand...
all wheels must participate
 
I have a full detroit in the rear of my YJ and notice no "quirkiness" on the road at all. Can't hear the ratchet over the noise of the YJ and the only time I really notice it is in gravel or grass (dragging a tire). Unless you apply power around a tight corner it's pretty invisible.
 
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