tgregg
NAXJA Member #1444
- Location
- Oak Hills, CA top of Cajon Pass
How tight should the rear shackle bolts be? Seems to me if I go too tight it will pinch the travel.
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How tight Rear Shackle Bolts?
- Thread starter tgregg
- Start date
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
The steel bushing inside should prevent the rubber bushings from binding on the shackle so tighten them suckas down!
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Not sure if I'm right here but this is how I do them.
Install bolts loose while jeep is on jackstands.
Lower jeep to ground so full weight is on it.
Tighten bolts SNUG. They should be tight, but you should still be able to turn the bolt inside the sleeve with a wrench. There should be some kind of locknute on the other side of the bolt.
Install bolts loose while jeep is on jackstands.
Lower jeep to ground so full weight is on it.
Tighten bolts SNUG. They should be tight, but you should still be able to turn the bolt inside the sleeve with a wrench. There should be some kind of locknute on the other side of the bolt.
hubs97xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
I found 80 ftlbs for the lower bolt/rear spring eye, and 115 for the upper.
tgregg
NAXJA Member #1444
- Location
- Oak Hills, CA top of Cajon Pass
Thanks torque settings are helpful!
builder
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Yucca Valley california
Hand wrench tight is plenty and allows the shackles to move..
greenmachine74
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beaumont Ca.
Tighten them with the jeep on the ground under full weight.
jeepfreak1020
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Thornton
X2. Samething i did and mine are great.
WB9YZU
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Madison, WI
The proper methode is to assemble it on stands (or lift) and assemble it snug. Then lower the vehicle on it's tires (or axle stands) and torque the bolts to the proper torque.
Why not leave them "snug"? Because then you are using a piece of sheet metal as a very thin bearing. When you torque the bolt to the proper torque, the whole assembly becomes stronger and the weight is distributed over the assembly and not just where the bolt contacts the sheetmetal.
-Ron
Why not leave them "snug"? Because then you are using a piece of sheet metal as a very thin bearing. When you torque the bolt to the proper torque, the whole assembly becomes stronger and the weight is distributed over the assembly and not just where the bolt contacts the sheetmetal.
-Ron
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
]
WoW! a post by zuki-ron where he is not a dick! :clap::huh::clap:Hasta:smootch:
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Also, if you torque the screws with the vehicle in the air at full droop, you'll have set the bushings in that position, and they'll be stressed constantly (even with the suspension at rest) and wear out faster. Snug them up (not very snug - 1/4- to 1/2-turn past contact,) set everything back on the ground, then and only then torque it.
I find it helpful in between putting it back on the ground and torquing the screws to give each corner a couple of good, strong, sharp bounces - then let the vehicle settle again. It gets a more "natural" position that way than merely lowering it would.
And, Ron is entirely correct about frame member loading - no arguments here.
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